Day 9, spent on zodiacs in two incredible locations, was one for the books. Our first ride was around Curtiss Island. It was a gloomy and cold morning, heavy low clouds were scraping the tops of the icebergs, and snow was giving way to sleet, letting the cold seep in even through our very effective expedition parkas.
But seeing the ice magic that ensued once we left the ship was worth it.
In an almost completely monochrome world, these pops of ethereal blue that emerged fleetingly from the water always enchanted me.
whale baleen or giant iceberg?
How amazing is this beauty?
Even more amazing once you go around it
Iceberg disguised as Turkish delight
A juvenile fur seal. Unlike other seal species that rely on blubber, fur seals rely on their heavy underfur to stay warm. They are more closely related to sea lions and can walk on all fours rather than do the "caterpillar" like other seal species.
No problem modeling for us
in the afternoon the weather cleared, again, and we headed to our next stop, Spert Island. Our Expedition leader Stefano warned us that Spert Island is a bit of a gamble, as it's a tricky area that requires just the right conditions to visit, but the payoff would be worth it, he promised. And, as the morning system cleared, and the blue sky peeked through, we set off for Spert.
As we sailed, the light and shadow play of the sunny day on the snowy mountains and icebergs offered up some incredible scenery.
Once we made it to Spert, we loaded into our zodiacs and headed out. Our hopes were high based on the hype, but we really didn't know what to expect
First we entered into a really narrow gorge crowded on both sides by towering cliffs. Seemingly impassable amounts of ice sloshed on the surface, but the zodiacs carefully pushed through.
There were a few tense moments as the waves menacingly smashed pieces of ice against the stone - a beautiful, if slightly terrifying obstacle course.
When we were past the channel, the views that opened up to us were truly extraordinary. After a few days in Antarctica you sort of run out of superlatives to describe what you're seeing, but they all came rushing back to me at Spert.
Once it was clear that we were headed through this cave, everyone seemingly held their breath.
It didn't seem real that we could be here, moving through this remote, hidden wilderness that looked like something out of a Tolkien novel.
More jaw dropping scenery awaited on the other side.
It's hard to express what it was like, being in this place that blurred the line between heaven and intergalactic adventure.
We thought we had seen every piece of ice imaginable by then, but then we came across this literal gem.
Wild formations the size of small cities
At one point we gathered together as a group and the energy was so palpable. Everyone was euphoric from the experience, people erupting in spontaneous whoops and cheering.
Truly an experience of a lifetime.
Forever grateful to our expedition team for taking the gamble to come here. Getting off the zodiac we all agreed that this outing alone was worth the price of the whole trip.
Enviously watching the afternoon groups get their turn from the decks of the ship.
Continuously surprised by the vessels people choose to make the perilous Drake Passage crossing. But it sure is pretty.
Take a ride with us
See what it was like to ride a zodiac around Spert Island